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Zoshigaya: Follow the Owls to Another Hidden Gem in Tokyo
One of my favorite aspects of Tokyo is the mixture of old and new, of hustle and quiet, of modern and traditional that populates the streets of the metropolis. Sometimes I just go to a busy district, pick a direction and start walking. The cityscape changes so rapidly that I never get bored.
This is the case for Zoshigaya, an unassuming area that's literally in the backdoor of Ikebukuro, one of Tokyo's most crowded districts. In contrast with the jumble of people and skyscrapers of the latter, here you'll find a slow, old-fashioned feel and streets lined with cafes and cute little shops.
Upon entering, to the left you'll see a sacred ginkgo tree that's about 700 years old, and the bright red torii gates that lead to the Takeyoshi Inari Hall.
This is susuki mimizuku, an amulet that's unique to this temple. It originates from the legend of a poor little girl whose mother was ill. Since she couldn't buy any medicines, she started visiting Kishimojindo every day, praying for her mother to heal. One day a butterfly spoke to her and told her to make little owls (mimizuku) out of Japanese silver grass (susuki), so she could sell them. She did so and sold so many that she was able to buy the medicine to cure her mother.
So even now you can buy a little owl to bring you some good fortune!
On the temple grounds is also a little shop selling Japanese candy and snacks called Kamikawaguchiya. It is said to be very, very old. If it's open make sure to stop by!
Address: 3-15-20 Zoshigaya, Toshima-ku, Tokyo (MAP)
Hours: 9:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.
Access: 5 min. walk from Kishibojinmae Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram / 5 min. walk from Zoshigaya Station on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line (Exit 1) / approx. 15 min. walk from JR Ikebukuro station East Exit / approx. 15 min. walk from JR Mejiro Station
Website (Japanese only): https://www.kishimojin.jp/
Nearby is also Homyoji Temple, ancient and beautiful with its elegant wooden gate. The grounds feel like you're deep inside a forest.
Because of the connection with owls, you'll find many owl statues scattered around the grounds of both Kishimojindo and Homyoji.
Address: 3-18-18 Minami-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku, Tokyo (MAP)
Hours:
Access: 6 min. walk from Kishibojinmae Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram / 6 min. walk from Zoshigaya Station on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line (Exit 1) / approx. 15 min. walk from JR Ikebukuro station East Exit / approx. 15 min. walk from JR Mejiro Station
Website (Japanese only): https://www.homyoji.or.jp/
As the name suggests, Mimizuku has a bit of an owl theme!
Address: 3-2-6 Zoshigaya, Toshima-ku, Tokyo (MAP)
Hours: 11:30 a.m. - 9:00 p.m.
Holidays: Sundays and National Holidays
Access: short walk from Kishibojinmae Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram / 2 min. walk from Zoshigaya Station on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line
If you wand to pick up a snack I highly recommend a stop at Oguraya, a tiny shop tucked away in a side alley. Oguraya specializes in senbei, crunchy rice crackers that are a staple Japanese treat. While senbei are traditionally roasted over charcoal fire, at Oguraya they are grilled in huge metal molds. Flavors include curry, butter, garlic, mayonnaise, cheese, shrimp and wasabi!
Address: 1-5-2 Zoshigaya, Toshima-ku, Tokyo (MAP)
Hours: 9:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m.
Holidays: Sundays, National Holidays
Access: approx. 7 min. walk from Zoshigaya Station on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line / approx. 7 min. walk from Kishibojinmae Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram
Website (Japanese-only): http://www.oguraya.tokyo.jp/
Hard to miss, Akamaru Bakery supplies the locals with fresh bread and lovingly prepared sandwiches. If you have a sweet tooth make sure you try their Akamaru Purin custard pudding.
Address: 1-7-1 Zoshigaya, Toshima-ku, Tokyo (MAP)
Hours: 11:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m. (may close early if products sell out)
Holidays: Thursdays
Access: approx. 5 min. walk from Zoshigaya Station (Exit 1) on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line / approx. 5 min. walk from Kishibojinmae Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram
Website (Japanese-only): http://www.toshima.ne.jp/~akamaru/
This stretch of road between Kishimojindo and the station is lined with luscious zelkova trees. Beside making for a pleasant walk, they also offer some refreshment on a hot summer day.
Along the zelkova road is the Zoshigaya Information Center, where you can pick up pamphlets about the area or a little souvenir. On the second floor is a gallery space that hosts different exhibitions.
Address: 3-19-5 Zoshigaya, Toshima-ku, Tokyo (MAP)
Hours: 10:30 a.m. - 16:30 p.m.
Holidays: Thursdays
Access: 2 min. walk from Zoshigaya Station (Exit 1) on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line / 2 min. walk from Kishibojinmae Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram
Website (Japanese only): http://www.toshima-mirai.jp/zoshigaya/
It's hard to believe that the hustle and bustle of Ikebukuro is barely a 20 minute walk from these quiet roads!
Exploring the area will lead you to tiny mom and pop grocery stores, retro-looking alleys and interesting shops.
Out of the blue you might run into this Western-looking building. It used to be the house of the American missionary J.M. McCaleb, who built it in 1907. Nowadays it has been converted into a museum that showcases the house itself and related material. Entry is free!
Address: 1-25-5 Zoshigaya, Toshima-ku, Tokyo (MAP)
Hours: 9:00 a.m. - 4:30 p.m.
Holidays: Mondays, the third Sunday of each month, the day following national holidays, New Year holidays
Entry fee: free
Access: 7 min. walk from Toden-zoshigaya Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram / 10 min. walk from Kishibojinmae Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram / 10 min. walk from Zoshigaya Station on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line
Website (Japanese only): http://www.city.toshima.lg.jp/129/bunka/bunka/shiryokan/kyusenkyoshikan/004412.html
The area around Zoshigaya Cemetery is also a nice place to walk around, especially in spring when the cherry blossoms are in bloom.
Address: 4-25-1 Minami-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku, Tokyo (MAP)
Access: 5 min. walk from Toden-zoshigaya Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram / 6 min. walk from Kishibojinmae Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram / 10 min. walk from Zoshigaya Station on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line
Always look out for hidden gems! I found this beautiful view in the back of a tiny park near the Cemetery.
Zoshigaya is served by both the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line and the Tokyo Sakura Tram (Toden Arakawa Line). It's also at walking distance from Mejiro and Ikebukuro Station on the JR Yamanote Line. With its nostalgic feel and interesting landmarks, Zoshigaya is yet another hidden gem inside the metropolis.
*The above article is based on information from September 2020.
*Prices, business hours and other information in this article are subject to change.
About the Author
Laura is an Italian living and working in Tokyo. She loves exploring hidden and unknown places, taking pictures and listening to Punk Rock music. When she’s not busy doing the above, she might enjoy a craft beer or play the sanshin (an Okinawan instrument similar to a shamisen).
This is the case for Zoshigaya, an unassuming area that's literally in the backdoor of Ikebukuro, one of Tokyo's most crowded districts. In contrast with the jumble of people and skyscrapers of the latter, here you'll find a slow, old-fashioned feel and streets lined with cafes and cute little shops.
Chase the Owls at Two Ancient Temples
One of the symbols of Zoshigaya is Kishimojindo, a temple dedicated to the goddess of safe birth and child rearing. The grounds are large and immersed in greenery, almost cutting it out from the outside world.The main hall was first constructed in 1664
Upon entering, to the left you'll see a sacred ginkgo tree that's about 700 years old, and the bright red torii gates that lead to the Takeyoshi Inari Hall.
This is susuki mimizuku, an amulet that's unique to this temple. It originates from the legend of a poor little girl whose mother was ill. Since she couldn't buy any medicines, she started visiting Kishimojindo every day, praying for her mother to heal. One day a butterfly spoke to her and told her to make little owls (mimizuku) out of Japanese silver grass (susuki), so she could sell them. She did so and sold so many that she was able to buy the medicine to cure her mother.
So even now you can buy a little owl to bring you some good fortune!
On the temple grounds is also a little shop selling Japanese candy and snacks called Kamikawaguchiya. It is said to be very, very old. If it's open make sure to stop by!
Information
Zoshigaya Kishimojindo | 雑司ヶ谷鬼子母神堂Address: 3-15-20 Zoshigaya, Toshima-ku, Tokyo (MAP)
Hours: 9:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.
Access: 5 min. walk from Kishibojinmae Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram / 5 min. walk from Zoshigaya Station on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line (Exit 1) / approx. 15 min. walk from JR Ikebukuro station East Exit / approx. 15 min. walk from JR Mejiro Station
Website (Japanese only): https://www.kishimojin.jp/
Nearby is also Homyoji Temple, ancient and beautiful with its elegant wooden gate. The grounds feel like you're deep inside a forest.
Because of the connection with owls, you'll find many owl statues scattered around the grounds of both Kishimojindo and Homyoji.
Information
Ikosan Homyoji | 威光山法明寺Address: 3-18-18 Minami-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku, Tokyo (MAP)
Hours:
Access: 6 min. walk from Kishibojinmae Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram / 6 min. walk from Zoshigaya Station on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line (Exit 1) / approx. 15 min. walk from JR Ikebukuro station East Exit / approx. 15 min. walk from JR Mejiro Station
Website (Japanese only): https://www.homyoji.or.jp/
Fill Your Belly With Local Delights
If you visit Zoshigaya you won't have to go far to enjoy a good meal or some tasty treats. A few minutes walk from Kishimojindo and right by the tram station is Mimizuku. The restaurant offers a variety of juicy ramen bowls as well as other dishes like curry rice.Mimizuku ramen, 750 yen
As the name suggests, Mimizuku has a bit of an owl theme!
Information
Mimizuku Ramen | 木菟らーめんAddress: 3-2-6 Zoshigaya, Toshima-ku, Tokyo (MAP)
Hours: 11:30 a.m. - 9:00 p.m.
Holidays: Sundays and National Holidays
Access: short walk from Kishibojinmae Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram / 2 min. walk from Zoshigaya Station on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line
If you wand to pick up a snack I highly recommend a stop at Oguraya, a tiny shop tucked away in a side alley. Oguraya specializes in senbei, crunchy rice crackers that are a staple Japanese treat. While senbei are traditionally roasted over charcoal fire, at Oguraya they are grilled in huge metal molds. Flavors include curry, butter, garlic, mayonnaise, cheese, shrimp and wasabi!
Information
Zoshigaya Teppan-yaki Senbei Oguraya | 雑司ヶ谷『鉄板焼せんべい』小倉屋製菓Address: 1-5-2 Zoshigaya, Toshima-ku, Tokyo (MAP)
Hours: 9:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m.
Holidays: Sundays, National Holidays
Access: approx. 7 min. walk from Zoshigaya Station on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line / approx. 7 min. walk from Kishibojinmae Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram
Website (Japanese-only): http://www.oguraya.tokyo.jp/
Hard to miss, Akamaru Bakery supplies the locals with fresh bread and lovingly prepared sandwiches. If you have a sweet tooth make sure you try their Akamaru Purin custard pudding.
Information
Akamaru Bakery | 赤丸ベーカリーAddress: 1-7-1 Zoshigaya, Toshima-ku, Tokyo (MAP)
Hours: 11:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m. (may close early if products sell out)
Holidays: Thursdays
Access: approx. 5 min. walk from Zoshigaya Station (Exit 1) on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line / approx. 5 min. walk from Kishibojinmae Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram
Website (Japanese-only): http://www.toshima.ne.jp/~akamaru/
Explore the Streets of Zoshigaya
Zoshigaya is also the ideal place for a refreshing stroll. The cute townscape is pleasant to walk through and it also hides a few unexpected gems.This stretch of road between Kishimojindo and the station is lined with luscious zelkova trees. Beside making for a pleasant walk, they also offer some refreshment on a hot summer day.
Along the zelkova road is the Zoshigaya Information Center, where you can pick up pamphlets about the area or a little souvenir. On the second floor is a gallery space that hosts different exhibitions.
Information
Zoshigaya Information Center | 雑司が谷 案内処Address: 3-19-5 Zoshigaya, Toshima-ku, Tokyo (MAP)
Hours: 10:30 a.m. - 16:30 p.m.
Holidays: Thursdays
Access: 2 min. walk from Zoshigaya Station (Exit 1) on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line / 2 min. walk from Kishibojinmae Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram
Website (Japanese only): http://www.toshima-mirai.jp/zoshigaya/
It's hard to believe that the hustle and bustle of Ikebukuro is barely a 20 minute walk from these quiet roads!
Out of the blue you might run into this Western-looking building. It used to be the house of the American missionary J.M. McCaleb, who built it in 1907. Nowadays it has been converted into a museum that showcases the house itself and related material. Entry is free!
Information
Zoshigaya Missionary House Museum | 雑司が谷旧宣教師館Address: 1-25-5 Zoshigaya, Toshima-ku, Tokyo (MAP)
Hours: 9:00 a.m. - 4:30 p.m.
Holidays: Mondays, the third Sunday of each month, the day following national holidays, New Year holidays
Entry fee: free
Access: 7 min. walk from Toden-zoshigaya Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram / 10 min. walk from Kishibojinmae Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram / 10 min. walk from Zoshigaya Station on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line
Website (Japanese only): http://www.city.toshima.lg.jp/129/bunka/bunka/shiryokan/kyusenkyoshikan/004412.html
The area around Zoshigaya Cemetery is also a nice place to walk around, especially in spring when the cherry blossoms are in bloom.
Information
Zoshigaya Cemetery | 雑司ケ谷霊園Address: 4-25-1 Minami-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku, Tokyo (MAP)
Access: 5 min. walk from Toden-zoshigaya Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram / 6 min. walk from Kishibojinmae Station on the Tokyo Sakura Tram / 10 min. walk from Zoshigaya Station on the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line
View from Toshima Kuritsu Minamiikebukuro Midori Park (MAP)
Always look out for hidden gems! I found this beautiful view in the back of a tiny park near the Cemetery.
Enjoy Tokyo off the Beaten Path
The cute retro streetcar of the Tokyo Sakura Tram
Zoshigaya is served by both the Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line and the Tokyo Sakura Tram (Toden Arakawa Line). It's also at walking distance from Mejiro and Ikebukuro Station on the JR Yamanote Line. With its nostalgic feel and interesting landmarks, Zoshigaya is yet another hidden gem inside the metropolis.
*The above article is based on information from September 2020.
*Prices, business hours and other information in this article are subject to change.
About the Author
Laura is an Italian living and working in Tokyo. She loves exploring hidden and unknown places, taking pictures and listening to Punk Rock music. When she’s not busy doing the above, she might enjoy a craft beer or play the sanshin (an Okinawan instrument similar to a shamisen).
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THIS ARTICLE IS BASED ON INFORMATION FROM 12 28,2020 Author：DiGJAPAN! Editorial Team
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